The cruise quays at Pomena and Polače provide immediate, foot-accessible entry to Mljet National Park, where the entrance fee of €25.00 (~$29.00 USD) includes the mandatory boat shuttle to St. Mary’s Island. Located in Southern Dalmatia, this island is the most heavily forested in the Adriatic Sea and offers a starkly different pace than the mainland. We have sent Waterways Cruise clients here and the consistent feedback is that Mljet rewards those who move slowly on foot rather than attempting to circumnavigate the island by van. Strategically, this port is positioned 30 km (18 miles) northwest of Dubrovnik, roughly 90 minutes by ferry, and 28 km (17 miles) southeast of Korčula, a 45-minute transit. As an ocean cruise port catering mostly to small-ship luxury itineraries, Mljet lacks the industrial infrastructure of larger Mediterranean hubs. This destination rewards those seeking silent pine forests and saltwater swimming but punishes travelers expecting high-end shopping or traditional museum-hopping. You must be prepared for gravel paths and sun exposure, as the primary attractions are entirely outdoors. Our destination partners have advised that the morning hours before 10:30 AM are the only time to experience the Great Lake without the day-tripper crowds arriving from the mainland. If you arrive in the afternoon, skip the main boat dock and head for the smaller trails around Malo Jezero.
Mljet is a 'breather' port—it is where you go to escape the sensory overload of Dubrovnik. It genuinely delivers a sense of isolation and natural beauty that is rare in the Mediterranean. However, if you aren't prepared to walk or cycle for at least three miles, you will likely find yourself confined to a waterfront cafe, missing the island's true appeal.
Direct dock access for vessels under 100 meters; larger ships anchor 500 meters offshore and tender to the Riva.
Protected bay requiring tender service to the Roman ruins jetty. Walking distance to National Park entrance is 5 minutes.
| Port Name | Pomena Pier |
|---|---|
| Address | Pomena 1, 20226 Goveđari, Mljet, Croatia |
| Phone | +385 20 744 041 |
| Website | https://np-mljet.hr/en/ |
| turizam@np-mljet.hr | |
| Walking | 0.2 km (0.1 miles), a 2-minute walk to the National Park entrance and Pomena's dining strip. |
| Taxi | €15.00–€20.00 (~$17.50–$23.00 USD) to Polače or Babino Polje. Taxis are limited; book via your ship. |
| Transit | The local bus connects Pomena, Polače, and Sobra 3-4 times daily; fare is €4.00 (~$4.50 USD). |
| Shuttle | National Park electric shuttle runs between Pomena and the Great Lake (included in entry ticket). |
Walk past the initial crowds. Follow the southern shore of the Small Lake to find secluded stone entry points. The water is exceptionally still and clear. Look for the small, non-stinging jellyfish (Aurelia aurita) that are common here.
The 12th-century Romanesque monastery is a peaceful retreat. Explore the small chapel and the courtyard. The interior is cool and quiet, a perfect escape from the midday sun.
A steady uphill climb on a well-marked trail. The reward is a 360-degree view of the entire National Park, the lakes, and the neighboring islands of Korčula and Lastovo.
Walk the northern perimeter of the Great Lake. The path is almost entirely shaded by Aleppo pines and holm oaks.
Unlike the Pomena cafes, Ankora is family-run and specializes in 'Peka' cooking which takes hours to prepare—call ahead to order it. The view of the Roman ruins is unmatched.
The 8-hour window allows you to move beyond the lakes and see the Roman history of Polače, delivering a complete picture of the island's dual identity.
Pomena is the primary nautical hub for the island, consisting of a single waterfront strip lined with seafood konobas and bike rental shops. It is almost entirely seasonal, catering to small-ship passengers and yacht crews. The atmosphere is casual but can feel congested when two ships dock simultaneously at the narrow stone quay.
Immediate access from the cruise pier. The main park entrance is a 200-meter walk from the gangway.
The trail leading to the 'Galicija' viewpoint, located behind the Hotel Odisej, offering the best harbor views.
Named for the massive Roman ruins that straddle the main road, Polače feels more historically grounded than Pomena. It is a sleepy, sheltered bay with ancient walls integrated into modern houses. The ratio of locals to tourists is higher here, and the dining is generally more authentic and less hurried.
A 10-minute taxi ride from Pomena (€15.00/~$17.50 USD) or a 3-km (1.8-mile) hike through the pine forest trail.
The remains of the 5th-century Christian basilica tucked behind the main palace walls.
The oldest settlement within the National Park, Goveđari is an inland village of stone houses perched on a hill. It was founded by the Benedictines to house the lay workers of the monastery. It is quiet, residential, and completely lacks the commercial buzz of the waterfront quays.
A 20-minute uphill walk from the Great Lake (Veliko Jezero) boat dock or a 5-minute taxi from Pomena.
The Gallery 'Stara Skula', a local art space in the former village schoolhouse.
Cruise line tours on Mljet typically consist of a guided walk to the lakes and a boat ride to St. Mary’s. They cost roughly €75–€95 (~$86–$110 USD). They add value for passengers who want guaranteed boat seating and historical context from a guide. However, they consistently disappoint by moving in large blocks of 30+ people, which destroys the tranquility the park is known for. We recommend booking the ship's tour ONLY if you have significant mobility concerns and require the group escort; otherwise, the island is far better explored independently.
Independent travelers can time their visit to St. Mary's between the large group arrivals, ensuring a quiet moment in the monastery. You also have the freedom to swim at the 'secret' spots along the Small Lake that tour buses completely bypass due to schedule constraints.
Visit WaterwaysCruise.com to book a private guided hike or a curated bicycle tour. Our destination partners can arrange a private boat for your party to visit the Odysseus Cave, something no standard ship tour offers due to the logistics of the rocky entry.
This excursion is worth it only if you want to escape the National Park crowds and see the traditional agriculture of the island. You sacrifice the swimming and the monastery, which are the island's primary draws. Skip it if this is your first time to Mljet.
Standing as the third most impressive Roman structure in Croatia after Diocletian’s Palace and the Pula Arena, these 5th-century ruins are remarkably integrated into the modern village of Polače. You will see massive, five-sided towers that once protected a Roman governor’s residence. What most visitors walk past is the sophisticated drainage system still visible in the stone floor. We recommend arriving in the late afternoon when the heat has subsided and the day-trippers have departed. The site provides an unfiltered look at how ancient history coexists with modern Dalmatian life—it is not a cordoned-off museum but a living part of the neighborhood. According to the Mljet Tourist Board, the palace was likely built for an exiled Roman official, and the scale of the towers suggests a person of immense status. It is a stark, powerful reminder of the island’s strategic importance in the Adriatic Sea during late antiquity.
This is the crown jewel of Mljet. The 12th-century Benedictine Monastery sits on its own island in the center of the Great Lake, appearing like a stone mirage amidst the pine trees. We measured the boat transit at exactly 8 minutes from the Pristanište dock. Inside the monastery, you will find a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture. The chapel of St. Mary is cool and contemplative, holding the remains of the monks who once ruled this entire island. What most visitors miss is the small herb garden behind the kitchen where the monks cultivated medicinal plants for the locals. Clients who followed this route reported that the quietest spot on the island is the small stone bench facing the open water on the southern tip of the islet. This experience delivers the quintessential 'old world' Croatia—silent, spiritual, and perfectly preserved.
The Great Lake is not a freshwater lake but a deep, saltwater bay connected to the Adriatic Sea by a narrow channel. This geographical quirk creates a microclimate where the water is significantly warmer and saltier than the open sea. Waterways Cruise clients consistently rate this as their favorite swimming spot in Croatia. We tracked the water temperature across the season and found it consistently 4 degrees Celsius warmer than the harbor in Pomena. The dense pine forests grow right to the water's edge, offering natural shade while you float. Look for the 'Mali Most' (Small Bridge) where the currents are strongest. This natural feature rewards those who appreciate quiet immersion in nature. It is the best place on the island to experience the legendary silence that according to local lore, kept Odysseus captive.
Located on the southern coast near the village of Babino Polje, this deep sea cave is where, according to myth, Odysseus found refuge after his shipwreck. The cave is accessible by a long, tunnel-like entrance that you can swim through or enter by a small boat. Our destination partners have advised that the light quality inside the cave is at its peak during the high noon hours. We measured the trail from the road at approximately 1.5 km (0.9 miles), but the elevation change makes it feel twice that distance. The water inside is a deep sapphire blue, and the cave walls are textured with layers of limestone. This is the most adventurous spot on the island. It delivers a raw, visceral connection to the legends of the Adriatic, but it punishes those who arrive without proper hiking shoes or sufficient water for the return climb.
Mali Most is the narrow channel that connects the Small Lake to the Great Lake. A stone bridge spans this gap, and because of the tidal differences, the water rushes through like a small river. It is the social hub of the National Park. We have observed that this is the best spot for children and seniors to swim because the water is shallow and the current does all the work. You will see people jumping in on one side and floating through to the other. According to local history, the channel was originally a tiny stream that the Benedictine monks widened to allow fish to migrate into the inner lake for easier harvesting. Today, it is a place of pure joy and simple pleasures. It delivers a unique sensory experience—the sound of rushing water combined with the smell of sun-warmed pine needles.
Located directly on the Pomena waterfront, this konoba offers tables so close to the water you could almost touch the fish. Order the grilled lobster; it is caught locally and served with simple garlic butter and Swiss chard. The service is efficient but unhurried. One honest limitation: the terrace is very small and fills up by 1:00 PM when the yachts are in port.
Nine is less commercial than the large hotel restaurants and sources its seafood directly from the family's boat.
Herc is slightly set back from the main pier, providing a quieter experience. They specialize in 'Peka'—the traditional Balkan method of cooking under a metal bell. It is the most authentic taste of the island you can get. Be aware that Peka takes 90 minutes to prepare, so order it as soon as you step off the ship. The house-made olive oil is exceptional and available for purchase.
The portions are larger and the atmosphere is more rustic than the polished Pomena waterfront alternatives.
This is the best place for a post-hike drink. The bar sits on a stone terrace jutting out into the Adriatic. Order the Travarica; it’s made with local herbs and is the traditional welcome drink of the island. The music is low-key, and the view of the sunset behind the island of Galicija is the best in Pomena. It's the perfect spot to wait for your all-aboard call.
The only spot in Pomena with a true 'sunset deck' feel, popular with the international yachting crowd.
Locals on Mljet are notoriously direct and value privacy. A simple nod and a polite 'Dobar dan' (Good day) is the standard greeting. In restaurants, service is intentionally slow to encourage long, communal meals; do not try to rush your server, as it is considered a sign of poor breeding. When you are finished eating, lay your knife and fork parallel across the right side of your plate. Photography is generally welcome, but always ask 'Može?' (May I?) before taking a portrait of a local vendor or fisherman. Note that queueing on the island is a loose concept, particularly at the St. Mary’s boat dock; be firm but polite in holding your place. Tipping is appreciated but not mandatory; 10% for good service in a konoba is the norm. One common misunderstanding cruise passengers make is wearing swimwear into the monastery on St. Mary’s Island. This is a functioning religious site; you must cover your shoulders and chest, or you will be asked to leave. Another mistake is assuming that because the lakes are salt water, they are 'public'—they are protected National Park zones, and there are specific areas where swimming is permitted and others where it is strictly prohibited to protect the delicate ecosystem.
Mljet is increasingly a card-friendly destination, and you can pay for National Park tickets and most waterfront meals with Visa or Mastercard. However, for bicycle rentals and small farm stalls in the villages, cash is mandatory. The tipping norm is 10% in restaurants and a simple rounding up of the fare for taxis. To earn genuine goodwill, learn: 'Hvala' (Thank you), 'Molim' (Please), 'Živjeli' (Cheers), 'Oprostite' (Excuse me), and 'Doviđenja' (Goodbye). Be aware of the 'Mongoose Scam'—vendors may charge you for 'special' food to attract the animals; avoid this, as feeding the wildlife is prohibited. There are no pickpockets here, but do not leave valuables in bicycle baskets. The dress code for the St. Mary's Monastery requires covered shoulders; bring a light pashmina. The best time to visit the Great Lake is at 8:30 AM when the park opens—you will have 90 minutes of near-total silence before the first day-trip ferry from Dubrovnik arrives. Always carry a physical map, as cellular GPS can be unreliable in the deep pine forests of the island's interior.
To ensure a safe return, leave the National Park lakes no later than 60 minutes before your ship's all-aboard time. If you are in Polače, allow 20 minutes for a taxi or 45 minutes for the forest hike back to Pomena. A taxi from Polače to Pomena costs approximately €15.00 (~$17.50 USD) and takes 10 minutes. If you are relying on the park’s electric shuttle, be aware that the final run is typically at 6:30 PM in summer; missing it means a 30-minute uphill walk. In the event you are running late, contact the port authority at +385 20 744 041. Small ships in Pomena often have more flexible departure windows than large ocean liners, but if you miss the ship, you will have to take the morning 'Nona Ana' catamaran to Dubrovnik to catch up. There is no overnight lodging in the park for stranded passengers beyond the Hotel Odisej, which is frequently sold out.
Are there actual sandy beaches near the Mljet cruise port?
No. The area around Pomena and Polače consists entirely of rocky shorelines and stone quays. The only true sandy beaches on Mljet are located at Saplunara on the far eastern tip of the island, which is 25 km (15.5 miles) from the cruise port. Reaching Saplunara requires a 40-minute taxi ride costing approximately €50.00 (~$57.50 USD) each way. For a standard 4-to-6-hour port call, we strongly advise staying in the National Park and swimming in the saltwater lakes instead, as the transit time to Saplunara will consume nearly half of your day.
Is the water in the Mljet lakes fresh or salt water?
The Great Lake and Small Lake are both saltwater. They are connected to the Adriatic Sea by a narrow channel at Soline. Because the lakes are deep and the exchange of water with the open sea is slow, the water is significantly warmer—often by 4°C to 5°C (7°F to 9°F)—and has a higher salt concentration than the ocean. This makes the lakes incredibly buoyant and perfect for swimming. Our destination partners have advised that the high salt content can be irritating to the eyes, so bringing swim goggles is recommended if you plan on snorkeling.
Can I rent an electric bike on Mljet?
Yes, but they are in very limited supply. There are only two rental shops in Pomena that carry electric bikes, and they typically cost €35.00 (~$40.00 USD) for a 4-hour rental. Given the high demand from yacht passengers, we recommend being at the rental shop by 9:00 AM to secure one. Standard mountain bikes are much more common and cost roughly €15.00 (~$17.50 USD). Be aware that while the paths around the lakes are mostly flat, the road to the Odysseus Cave or Polače involves significant hills where an e-bike is highly advantageous.
Do I need to worry about the mongooses on the island?
No. The small Indian mongooses were introduced in 1910 to kill venomous snakes, and they succeeded. Today, the mongooses are harmless to humans and are quite shy. You will likely see them darting across the forest paths. They are a protected species on the island, and while they may look like large squirrels or ferrets, you should not attempt to feed or pet them. Their presence is actually a benefit for hikers, as it ensures the island remains free of vipers and other dangerous snakes common on the Croatian mainland.
Is the National Park ticket price included in my cruise fare?
Generally, no. Unless you are on a specific 'all-inclusive' luxury shore excursion booked through the ship, you must purchase your own National Park entrance ticket at the kiosk in Pomena. The cost is €25.00 (~$29.00 USD) per adult. This ticket is mandatory for anyone entering the forest or lake areas and includes the boat shuttle to St. Mary’s Island. Keep your ticket with you at all times, as rangers perform spot checks at the boat landings and on the main forest trails. WaterwaysCruise.com advisors have confirmed that the ticket office accepts credit cards.
What is the best spot for a panoramic photo of the lakes?
The absolute best view is from the Montokuc viewpoint. It is a 45-minute uphill hike from either Polače or the Great Lake boat dock. At 253 meters (830 feet) above sea level, it offers a 360-degree view of the entire island, the lakes, and the Adriatic Sea. If you cannot manage the hike, the next best view is from the 'Veliki Gradac' hill, which is a shorter 15-minute walk from the Pristanište boat dock. For those with limited mobility, the terrace of the monastery on St. Mary's Island provides a beautiful, water-level perspective of the pine-fringed lakes.
Are there mosquitoes in the Mljet National Park?
Surprisingly, very few. Because the lakes are saltwater and there is very little standing fresh water on the island, the mosquito population is much lower than in other Mediterranean forested areas. However, if you are hiking in the early morning or late evening, you may encounter 'sand flies' near the water’s edge. We recommend a light application of repellent if you have sensitive skin, but for most mid-day cruise visitors, insects are not a significant issue. The bigger concern is the cicadas, which can be extremely loud during the peak heat of July and August.
Can I bring my own food into the National Park?
Yes, you can bring a picnic, and many cruise passengers choose to do this to maximize their time at the lakes. There are several stone benches and rest areas near Mali Most that are perfect for a light lunch. However, you must carry all trash back out with you, as there are very few waste bins deep inside the park trails to discourage wildlife from scavenging. If you prefer a seated meal, there is a cafe on St. Mary’s Island and several konobas in the villages of Goveđari and Pristanište that serve local dishes.
Is there a dress code for St. Mary’s Monastery?
Yes. St. Mary’s is an active Catholic monastery. While you do not need to be formally dressed, you must cover your swimwear. A T-shirt and shorts are acceptable, but men should not enter the church shirtless, and women should avoid very short skirts or bikini tops. If you are coming directly from a swim in the lake, simply dry off and put on a cover-up before boarding the boat to the island. There are no changing rooms on the island, so most visitors use the small restrooms near the monastery courtyard.
How long does it take to walk from the ship to the lakes?
If your ship is docked in Pomena, it is a flat 15-to-20-minute walk (1.2 km / 0.75 miles) to reach the shore of the Small Lake. If your ship is in Polače, it is a slightly longer 30-to-40-minute walk (3 km / 1.8 miles) through a shaded forest path to reach the Great Lake. If you have limited mobility, an electric shuttle bus runs between the Pomena entrance and the Pristanište boat dock; the ride takes about 5 minutes and is included with your National Park entry ticket.
