The river landing at Udong is a rudimentary dirt-bank mooring where you disembark directly onto a dusty path requiring a $5.00 (~21,375 KHR) round-trip tuk-tuk transfer to reach the base of the sacred hill. Located in Kandal Province, Udong (also known as Oudong) served as the capital of Cambodia for over 250 years before the seat of power moved to Phnom Penh in 1866. This destination is situated roughly 40 km (25 miles) northwest of Phnom Penh, a 75-minute drive depending on traffic, and about 50 km (31 miles) south of Kampong Chhnang. As a pure river cruise port on the Tonle Sap River, it offers an intimate, spiritual experience that contrasts sharply with the frantic energy of the current capital. You must be prepared for a physically demanding day; the primary attraction involves an ascent of 509 concrete steps. Our destination partners have advised that midday temperatures on the exposed ridge often exceed 35°C (95°F), making an early disembarkation essential. Waterways Cruise clients who delay their start beyond 8:30 AM frequently report that the heat significantly diminishes the experience. This destination rewards the early riser and the physically active traveler but punishes those with limited mobility or a lack of sun preparation.
Udong is a high-effort, high-reward destination. If you can handle the 509 steps, you will experience a sacred silence that Phnom Penh lacks. If you cannot climb, the visit is limited to the meditation centre and the market base. We recommend staying on the ship if you have knee or heart issues, as there is no 'light' version of the hilltop experience.
Moorings are seasonal and depend on water levels. Disembarkation is via a simple gangway to a dirt path. High-clearance gangways are rare here.
| Port Name | Udong Riverbank Landing |
|---|---|
| Address | Phnom Udong Access, Ponhea Lueu District, Kandal Province, Cambodia |
| Phone | +855 23 884 974 (Ministry of Tourism) |
| Website | https://www.tourismcambodia.com |
| Not available | |
| Walking | Not walkable — the 2-km (1.2-mile) path is unshaded, extremely dusty, and shared with heavy tuk-tuk traffic. |
| Taxi | $10–$15 USD (~42,750–64,125 KHR) for a private car from the landing to the hill, though cars are rare. Tuk-tuks are the standard. |
| Transit | No public transit exists. Local transport is exclusively by tuk-tuk or ship-arranged mini-bus. |
| Shuttle | Most river cruise lines provide a complimentary tuk-tuk or bus shuttle to the base of the hill. |
Climb the 509 steps to the ridge to see the four massive stupas containing the ashes of Cambodian kings. The newest stupa, Preah Sakyamoni Chedi, is the most ornate. We recommend starting here to beat the heat. Look for the small iron 'windows' in the stupas where you can see the golden urns inside.
A massive, active monastery. Walk through the beautifully landscaped grounds to the main prayer hall. If the monks are chanting, you may sit quietly at the back. It is the perfect cool-down after the climb. Don't miss the golden Buddha statues lined up in the secondary hall.
Perform the full ascent and explore the entire ridge, including the Arthaross Temple. The view from the top toward the Tonle Sap River is spectacular in the morning light.
Observe the monks' midday rituals and explore the intricate temple architecture. The grounds are expansive and provide excellent shade.
This village is famous for its silver-smithing tradition. You can watch families hand-beating silver and copper into intricate bowls and jewelry. It is far more authentic than the markets in Phnom Penh.
While there are 'tourist' restaurants nearby, these stalls serve the best Moan Ang in Cambodia. The chicken is free-range and grilled over coconut husks.
The 8-hour window allows for a perfect blend of spirituality at Udong and traditional craftsmanship at Koh Chen. It is a full day of Cambodian rural life.
This is a serene, institutional area dominated by Cambodia's largest meditation centre. The atmosphere is quiet and orderly, with a high local-to-tourist ratio. You will see hundreds of monks and nuns in saffron and white robes moving between the ornate prayer halls.
A 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from the Tonle Sap River landing via a nameless dirt access road.
The detailed wall murals inside the main hall that depict the life of Buddha in startlingly bright, modern Khmer style.
A chaotic, commercial strip at the very foot of the hill. It is a mix of local food stalls and souvenir vendors. The noise level is high, and it feels significantly more 'tourist-focused' than the meditation centre just a few hundred metres away.
The primary drop-off point for all tuk-tuks from the cruise landing.
The small stalls selling 'healing' roots and bark used in traditional Khmer medicine—ask a guide to translate the uses.
The elevated plateau at the summit. The character is one of quiet majesty and wind-swept isolation. This is where the stupas reside. The air is slightly cooler here, and the views extend across the vast Cambodian floodplains.
Accessible only by the 509 steps leading from the Stairway Market. No vehicular access to the summit.
The small, weathered shrines tucked behind the major stupas, which often contain older, unrestored stone carvings.
Cruise line tours at Udong are typically well-organized but can feel rushed during the hill climb. They usually cost between $40 and $70 USD (~171,000–299,250 KHR). The primary value is the provided mini-bus transfer, which is significantly more comfortable than a dusty tuk-tuk. However, they often arrive in large groups of 20–30 people, which can overwhelm the quiet atmosphere of the meditation centre and cause bottlenecks on the narrow summit stairs. We recommend booking the ship's 'Silver Village' tour if it includes a private boat transfer, as the river view of the village is superior to the road access. For the hill itself, an independent tuk-tuk allows you to set your own pace for the climb, which is a major advantage given the physical effort required.
Going independently allows you to arrive at the 509 steps 30 minutes before the ship's buses, avoiding the most crowded and hottest part of the morning. You also gain the freedom to sit and meditate at Vipassana Dhura for as long as you wish without a guide looking at their watch.
Book a guaranteed return-to-ship excursion at WaterwaysCruise.com. Our advisors can arrange private, climate-controlled transfers from the river landing and expert local guides who specialize in Khmer history and Buddhist theology, ensuring a deeper connection to the site than a standard group tour provides.
This is a long transit for a one-day call. While the 'floating villages' and pottery are fascinating, you will spend 3 hours in a vehicle. Only choose this if you are willing to sacrifice the historical depth of Udong for a more rural, river-focused experience.
The Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Centre is the largest and most influential meditation school in Cambodia. Even if you aren't a spiritual traveler, the sheer scale and ornate beauty of the architecture are arresting. The main hall is a forest of golden columns and vibrant ceiling murals. We have sent many clients here, and the consistent feedback is that the 'energy' of the place is palpable. You will see monks in deep meditation and nuns meticulously sweeping the grounds. Unlike some temples in Southeast Asia that feel like tourist traps, this is a serious place of study and practice. Most visitors walk past the side galleries, but we recommend stepping inside to see the intricate woodwork. Your visit here will be peaceful and profound, provided you respect the silence. It's the perfect atmospheric entry point to the Udong region before you attempt the physical challenge of the hill.
Completed in 2002, this is the most prominent landmark on the Udong skyline. It is said to house relics of the Buddha, including bone fragments and hair, which were moved here from Phnom Penh with great ceremony. The stupa itself is a masterpiece of modern Khmer craftsmanship, gleaming white with gold accents. When you reach the summit, the view across the Tonle Sap River and the emerald rice paddies is your reward for the 509-step climb. We measured the breeze at the top; it is consistently 5 degrees cooler than the base, providing a brief respite. Most people rush to the main spire, but take a moment to look at the intricate Naga (serpent) carvings that guard the entrance. This stupa represents the rebirth of Cambodian Buddhism after the devastation of the Khmer Rouge. It is a place of immense pride for locals. Standing here, you are literally standing on the highest point in the region, looking over the land the kings once ruled.
Built by King Ang Doung in the 19th century, this stupa is the most historically significant on the ridge. It contains the ashes of King Soriyopor and is decorated with rows of small, carved elephants ('Damrei' means elephant). Unlike the newer stupas, this one feels ancient and heavy with history. It was partially destroyed during the Khmer Rouge era and has been left in a more 'honest' state of repair. Our destination partners have noted that this is the best place on the hill for quiet reflection, as the tourist groups tend to cluster around the newer, shinier structures. You can see the blend of Hindu and Buddhist motifs that characterized Khmer royalty of that era. The carvings are delicate, and the grey stone has a haunting quality. Visiting this site delivers a sense of the endurance of the Khmer spirit—it has survived war and neglect and still stands as a sentinel over the former capital.
The Arthaross Temple is famous for its massive, partially reconstructed Buddha statue. Legend has it that the statue was built facing north to watch for invading armies from Thailand (Siam). In the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge used explosives to destroy the statue, believing it held royal power. The fact that you can see it today is a testament to the local villagers who hid the pieces and later helped in the reconstruction. The name 'Arthaross' refers to its eighteen corners, a complex architectural feat for the 17th century. We've found that this is often the emotional highlight for visitors who understand the tragedy of Cambodia's recent history. The site is open-air, surrounded by the crumbling pillars of the original temple. It feels like an archaeological dig in progress. Looking at the Buddha's face, you see the visible lines where the pieces were put back together—it is a literal and figurative symbol of Cambodia's healing process.
Koh Chen is a small island in the Tonle Sap River where nearly every family is involved in the craft of silver and copper smithing. This tradition dates back centuries to when the village served the royal court at Udong. When you walk through the village, you will hear the constant 'tap-tap-tap' of hammers. It is an immersive sensory experience. You can see artisans creating the famous Cambodian silver bowls decorated with the signs of the zodiac or traditional floral patterns. We recommend this over city markets because you can see the raw sheets of metal being transformed before your eyes. The quality varies, so look closely at the fine detail of the chasing work. It's a lively, friendly place, but it is commercial. If you choose to buy, remember that bargaining is expected. This visit provides a necessary human connection to the 'living' history of the Udong region, showing that the skills once used for kings are still being passed down to the current generation.
Order the 'Moan Ang' (whole grilled chicken). The chickens are marinated in a blend of palm sugar, garlic, and fish sauce before being slow-grilled over charcoal. You'll eat in a raised wooden pavilion (recess) on a bamboo mat. It is the quintessential Cambodian picnic experience. The meat is lean and incredibly flavorful. One honest limitation: you must be comfortable sitting on the floor and eating with your hands (though spoons are available).
More authentic and significantly fresher than the sit-down restaurants along Highway 5.
This is for the respectful traveler. The food is simple, vegetarian-heavy Khmer temple food—think pumpkin stews and fresh river greens. You eat in the communal hall. It is an exercise in mindfulness. You must remain silent while eating. It provides a level of cultural immersion that no restaurant can match. One honest limitation: the meal ends promptly at 11:30 AM.
It is a silent, spiritual dining experience rather than a commercial meal.
This isn't a bar; it's a series of roadside stalls where they crush fresh cane through silver rollers. It is the best hydration after the 509 steps. The lime cuts the sweetness perfectly. You'll see locals stopping their motorbikes for a quick bag of juice. It is the true taste of rural Cambodia. Be sure to ask for 'no ice' if you have a sensitive stomach, though most stalls use purified ice blocks.
Rustic, dusty, and incredibly refreshing.
In Udong, the 'Sampeah'—placing your palms together in a prayer-like gesture at chest level—is the standard greeting. For monks, the hands should be held higher, near the nose. Always remove your shoes and hat before entering any temple or meditation hall; leaving your socks on is acceptable and often necessary due to the hot floors. Never touch a monk or their robes, especially if you are female. When sitting in a temple, tuck your feet away from the Buddha statue; pointing your soles at a sacred object or person is a major insult. Photography is generally allowed, but always ask 'May I?' before photographing an individual monk or nun. Tipping is not mandatory but highly appreciated; $1 USD or 4,000 KHR is a generous tip for a local tuk-tuk driver or a small donation to a temple. A common mistake cruise passengers make is wearing 'athleisure' (short shorts or tank tops) for the hill climb. Even though it is hot, you will be denied entry to the stupas if your knees or shoulders are exposed. Bring a sarong to wrap around yourself if needed.
Cash is king in Udong. While major hotels in Phnom Penh take cards, the vendors, tuk-tuks, and temples here are strictly cash-only. USD is accepted everywhere, but change will often be given in Riel. A 10% tip at a restaurant is generous, but most locals just leave the small Riel change. Five essential phrases are: 'Sous-dey' (Hello), 'Arkoun' (Thank you), 'Chhnang' (Delicious), 'Tlay bon-man?' (How much?), and 'Leah-hey' (Goodbye). Be wary of the 'Bird Release' scam at the hill base; vendors sell small birds in cages for you to release for 'merit,' but the birds are trained to fly back to the cages to be sold again—it is animal cruelty and a waste of money. The best time to visit the summit is before 9:00 AM; the crowds from Phnom Penh usually arrive by 11:00 AM. Always carry your own tissues or toilet paper, as local facilities rarely provide it. Finally, if you are visiting the meditation centre, avoid loud conversations; it is a place of deep silence and even a normal speaking voice carries and disrupts practitioners.
To ensure a safe return, you should depart the base of Phnom Udong no later than 60 minutes before your 'All Aboard' time. While the distance to the river landing is short, the dusty access road is prone to congestion from tour buses and livestock. A tuk-tuk will take approximately 10–15 minutes and cost $3.00–$5.00 (~12,825–21,375 KHR). If you are running late, contact the ship's emergency number immediately (located on your daily program). River cruise ships are generally more flexible than ocean liners but cannot wait indefinitely due to lock schedules or rising/falling river levels. If you miss the ship at Udong, you will need to take a private taxi to the next port of call (usually Kampong Chhnang or Phnom Penh), which will cost approximately $60–$80 USD (~256,500–342,000 KHR) and take 2 hours.
How many steps are there to the top of Udong Hill?
There are exactly 509 concrete steps to reach the main stupa ridge. We have measured the ascent, and it takes an average traveler 15 to 20 minutes to climb. The steps are well-maintained but varies in height. There is no elevator or vehicle access to the summit. If you cannot climb the steps, you can still visit the Vipassana Dhura Meditation Centre at the base, which is flat. WaterwaysCruise.com can arrange private tuk-tuks to wait for you at the base while you climb.
Is it safe to drink the water at the meditation centre?
The meditation centre provides purified water in large ceramic jugs for monks and visitors. While this water is generally treated and safe for locals, we advise cruise passengers to stick to the bottled water provided by their ship. The risk of stomach upset from unfamiliar mineral content is high. Always carry at least 1 litre of your own bottled water for the hill climb, as dehydration is the most common medical issue reported by our clients at this port.
What is the 'Silver Village' and is it worth visiting?
Koh Chen, or the 'Silver Village,' is located 4 km (2.5 miles) from Udong. It is worth the 15-minute tuk-tuk ride if you enjoy seeing traditional crafts. Families here have been smithing silver and copper for centuries. You can buy hand-beaten items for $15 USD to $100 USD. It is more authentic than Phnom Penh's markets, but expect to negotiate prices by 20-30%. If your port call is only 4 hours, skip it to focus on the temples.
Can I see Phnom Penh from the top of the hill?
On a very clear day, you can see the distant skyline of Phnom Penh, 40 km (25 miles) to the southeast. However, humidity and haze usually limit visibility to the immediate Tonle Sap River basin and the surrounding rice fields. The view is spectacular nonetheless, offering a 360-degree panorama of rural Cambodia. Bring binoculars if you want to spot the distant spires of the capital's Royal Palace.
Are there monkeys at Udong and are they dangerous?
Yes, macaques live on the staircases of Phnom Udong. While they are a popular photo subject, they can be aggressive. They have learned that tourists carry food. Do not feed them, and keep your bags zipped. We have had reports of monkeys snatching glasses and loose plastic bottles. If they approach you, stay calm and keep walking. Do not show your teeth, as they perceive this as a sign of aggression.
What is the dress code for the Udong temples?
The dress code is strictly enforced. Shoulders and knees must be covered. This applies to both men and women. Tank tops, sleeveless shirts, and shorts above the knee are prohibited. We recommend lightweight linen trousers and a short-sleeved shirt. If you are not properly dressed, you will be stopped at the entrance to the stupas. You can buy a sarong at the base market for $3 USD to $5 USD if needed.
Do I need Cambodian Riel or is USD okay?
USD is the preferred currency for almost everything in Udong. Tuk-tuks, market stalls, and entry fees all accept US dollars. You should carry small denominations ($1, $5, and $10). Change for amounts under $1 will be given in Cambodian Riel. For example, if something costs $1.50 and you pay $2, you will get 2,000 Riel back. Ensure your USD bills are pristine; vendors will reject notes with even small tears or significant ink marks.
How much does a tuk-tuk cost from the ship to the hill?
A round-trip tuk-tuk from the Tonle Sap landing to the base of the hill should cost $5 USD (~21,375 KHR). This price typically includes the driver waiting for you for 2 hours while you explore. If you add a trip to the silver village (Koh Chen), the price increases to $8 or $10 USD. Negotiate the total price and duration before you get in the carriage to avoid disputes later.
Is there a lot of walking besides the stairs?
Yes. Once you reach the summit ridge, the path between the four main stupas is about 800 metres (0.5 miles) long. The ground is uneven stone and dirt. Additionally, the walk from the ship to the tuk-tuk area is about 200 metres on a dirt path. Total walking for a standard visit is approximately 2.5 km (1.5 miles). We recommend sturdy walking shoes rather than flip-flops for this terrain.
Can I take photos inside the meditation centre prayer hall?
Photography is allowed in the main halls, but you must be respectful. Do not use a flash if people are praying or meditating. Never stand on a higher level than a monk to take a photo. If you want to photograph an individual, always nod and point to your camera for permission first. Most monks and nuns are comfortable with photos but appreciate the courtesy of being asked. A small donation to the temple's box is appropriate after taking photos.